As I told you at the end of my last post, when we got back to Honningsvag we were all still so excited about having seen the Midnight Sun that we didn’t want to go to our beds straight away as we knew we wouldn’t sleep, even though it was nearly two o’clock in the morning. Instead we went for a little walk near the hotel and it was so light that Mum could take these lovely photos without using the flash on her camera…
But eventually we were ready to back to the hotel and go to bed and soon we were sleeping like logs, ready for another early start, this time heading south.
Before I tell you any more about that, however, I’d just like to tell you a little bit more about Honningsvag – and about an amazing dog who lived there many years ago.
Despite its small size, Honningsvag is the northernmost city in mainland Norway, having received this status just before a new rule said that settlements had to have a population of at least 5000 people before they could be classed as a city. Its economy is based mainly on fishing and tourism, with people staying there to visit the North Cape to see either the Midnight Sun in summer or the Northern Lights in winter.
Its busiest time every day is between 11.15 and 14.45 when the northbound Hurtigruten ship makes a long stop on its way to Kirkenes to give passengers time to get to the North Cape and back if they want. (They can’t do this from the southbound ship to Bergen, however, as that arrives at Honningsvag around 05.30 and only makes a short stop.)
Another thing I found out about Honningsvag was that, although the sun never goes below the horizon from May 13th to July 31st every year, it never comes above the horizon from November 21st to January 21st.
But what I like best is the story of Bamse – in Norway it’s pronounced Bumpsa and means teddy-bear – a Saint Bernard dog who became the mascot of the Norwegian Forces in Exile during World War II.
Born in 1937, he was bought as a puppy by Captain and Mrs Erling Hefto in Honningsvag. He was a family pet, but also liked going to sea with Captain Hefto on his ship, the Thorodd.
When World War II started on September 3rd 1939, Norway at first declared itself neutral, but this position changed on April 9th 1940 when Nazi forces invaded the country. Along with many other ships, the Thorodd was drafted into the Royal Norwegian Navy and Bamse was enlisted as an official crew member.
On June 10th 1940 official resistance to the Nazi invasion ended, but the Thorodd – along with other ships and their crews from the Royal Norwegian Navy – managed to escape to the UK. Stationed at Dundee and Montrose, the Thorodd was converted into a mine-sweeper and from March 14th 1941 served with the Royal Navy in the UK but still with a Norwegian crew, including Bamse.
Wearing his personalised steel helmet, he always went to sea with the Thorodd and stayed up on deck, no matter what the dangers were. And, when the ship was in port, he kept his eye on the crew to make sure they were all safe. Among other acts, he jumped into the sea to rescue a sailor who’d fallen overboard – and saved another one from serious injury from a knifeman by pushing the attacker into the harbour.
When they were off-duty, Bamse also liked to go to the pubs with the rest of the crew and enjoyed a drink of beer with them. He also had a bus-pass which he wore around his neck, so that, if they went without him, he actually knew how to get on the bus – and where to get off to find them. And, if the crew members were in danger of being late back, Bamse would round them up and escort them back to the ship.
He was also good with the people of Montrose – and especially with the children who were able to ride on his broad back and play with him.
But sadly on July 22nd 1944 his kind and courageous heart gave out and he died in Montrose. He was buried in the town on the banks of the South Esk river with full military honours and the local schools closed so that the children who’d loved him could go to his funeral.
Many years later, the people of Montrose had this life-size statue made in his memory. It stands by the harbour in Montrose, facing towards Honningsvag, where a smaller replica was later erected and faces towards Montrose.
And, after telling you so much about Bamse, I’ve run out of space and so I’ll have to tell you about the start of our journey south in my next post. Meanwhile, take care and stay safe – and I’ll be in touch again soon…
Follow my next blog: 225. MY MUM THE STORY-TELLER – PART ONE HUNDRED AND SEVEN
20/10/2022
Wilf the bear-faced blogger 